Toulouse as a Goose!
A Weekend in the Anderson Valley...
June 27, 2006
by Denise Johnson
Photos, Left to Right:
- The Toulouse Vineyard. The Boltz' own the property all the way to the top of the ridge!
- Toulouse Reserve Pinot and its "goosey" label.
- Vern Boltz and his winery dog.
A couple of months ago a good friend of mine, Janet Dyer, asked me if I'd like to join her on a weekend trip to the Anderson Valley. The weekend of May 20th was the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival and Janet, who just recently got her wine broker's license, was interested in "scouting" some new Pinot producers that she could represent. Adventurer that I am, I said "sure", in spite of my vivid memory of the very long, winding, two-lane Highway 128. I am slightly prone to motion sickness and do much better as driver than passenger. We took Janet's car but suffice to say, I eventually ended up behind the wheel!
The sold-out Saturday tasting was held in a big, white tent at Scharffenberger Cellars in Philo. Only Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs were poured at this event, a fundraiser for charity. I was surprised at the number of wineries represented and Janet and I tromped from table to table, trying many different wines, Janet passing out business cards all the while. There were delicious wines from McPhail, Copain, Goldeneye, Londer, Philo Ridge and others. A surprising number of wineries said they made only a tiny amount of wine and sold it all in their tasting room. By the end of the day Janet had made a potential contact or two and we had been invited to visit a winery that she already represented, Toulouse Vineyards, just down the road.
I was already familiar with Toulouse's wine and their label with the big, white goose. Napa Valley Winery Exchange carried their debut vintage - 2002. It was fun to drive onto their beautiful property and chat with the proprietor of this lovely estate.
Vern Boltz and his wife, Maxine, had already completed very successful careers in other professions when life's journey landed them in the Anderson Valley. Vern Boltz is a retired Captain of the Oakland Fire Department AND designed and built several luxury homes (including their own) in his off duty time. Maxine spent her years as a flight attendant and later sold real estate. After retirement, the two decided to explore the possibility of owning vineyard land, and by 1997 had purchased land and planted 17 acres of Pinot Noir in a vineyard they named Toulouse. By 2002 they were making wine.
The beautiful Toulouse Vineyard is located in the heart of the Anderson Valley in Philo, 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean and two north of San Francisco. The vineyard elevation ranges from 400 to 600 feet. Gravelly Pinole soil facilitates deep-seeking roots and excellent drainage. The climate and daily weather patterns are ideal for Pinot Noir. Summer temperatures can reach the high 90's but afternoon ocean breezes and occasional fog cool the valley and refresh the fruit with nightly lows in the 50's, creating the perfect sugar/acid balance in the grapes.
After tasting both the "regular" Pinot Noir and the reserve at the event and at the winery, I decided to purchase the 2003 Toulouse Reserve Pinot Noir for this Spotlight. The wine has a unique citric spiciness that I found attractive and it proved an excellent accompaniment to both the cold salmon and the paella that I had for lunch! Only eight barrels of the Reserve Pinot Noir were made.
2003 Toulouse Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Anderson Valley
This slightly masculine-style Pinot is decidedly smoky/toasty to the nose, as dry red cherry, red plum, rose petal and cinnamon scents are supported by an ample dose of vanilla and a hint of citric tartness. On the palate it continues the impression of fruity/savory contrast, with dry cherry and red plum flavors poised against equally rich notes of vanilla, black tea and earth. The lingering finish is, at the same time, palate coating and a trace youthfully coarse, as its otherwise creamy impression is cut by a hint of orange rind. Built for rich roasts and stews, it should gain in harmony and overall appeal over the next twelve to eighteen months. Unfined and unfiltered, 200 cases (8 barrels) produced.