Don's Gillette's Wine Blog
Musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Read Don's full bio...
Email Don directly with your wine-related questions.
A Good Season for Oddballs
In recent years Summer has become a showcase for California's non traditional white grapes. This includes historically important, but lately more obscure varietals like Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Semillon, along with relative newcomers like Verdelho and Arneis. This year we have a group that is bountifully diverse and highly successful. What follows is a brief guided tour for the curious.
Last week I tasted two new offerings from Doug Margerum. The first was a genteel and delightfully sip-able 2008 Riesling from Santa Barbara ($19.95), while number two was the best local Chenin Blanc I have had in years. Margerum's 2008 Chenin Blanc from Santa Ynez Valley ($19.95) combines California-style richness with pristine focus and the stone-hard minerality encountered in the best French bottlings. It should be ideal for twilight dinners.
Minerality and focus are also hallmarks of the 2007 Kynsi Pinot Blanc from Santa Barbara's famous Bien Nacido vineyard ($22.95), while luxurious Sauterne-esque richness is hinted at by the 2007 Bridegroom 80% Semillon/20% Sauvignon Blanc Blend ($19.95) from Napa. Palminas 2007 Arneis, from Santa Barbara's Honea vineyard ($21.95) is a richly textured and subtly complex offering, while Seghesio's 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20.95) showcases another piece of the Italian palate, delivering gushing fruit, balanced by cutting acidity.
Portugal and Spain are nicely represented as well. Two Verdelhos, from vineyards 400 miles apart, demonstrate that adventurous planters can be well-rewarded. The 2008 Lee "Silvaspoons" ($16.95), from the new Alta Mesa appellation in Lodi, is a quietly refreshing, subtly-rich and tasty effort. In Paso Robles, Ken Volk has made a fuller, yet even more vibrant 2008 bottling from a property called El Pomar Junction ($23.95). Tangent's 2007 Central Coast Albarino ($18.95), delivers the thirst-quenching refreshment and food-companionability one expects from Spain's official Tapas-tamer.
The spirit of the Rhone Valley looms behind two other contributions. The 2006 Nadia White ($36.95) showcases the new Santa Barbara Highlands area by joining Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne in a creamy and delicious marriage. The new 2007 North Coast release from Sol Rouge winery, called Gypsy Blanc ($28.95), makes a brighter and more floral, but equally impressive statement.
I have long hoped that someone would bring Austria's Gruner Veltliner grape to California. Although I have yet to see a California example, I couldn't resist the 2007 Daedalus Elton Vineyard bottling ($23.95) from Oregon's Willamette Valley. The Daedalus is a bit low-key, but shows appropriate mineral strains and texture, and developing fruit that already satisfies.
Darker Hues
No Spring or Summer is complete without ros. Three jumped out at us this year. Samsara's 2008 California Grenache ($19.95) is a vibrant refresher, packed with wild strawberry, watermelon and Kirsch flavors. Made in a much warmer locale, hundreds of miles to the north, the 2008 Elizabeth Rose ($18.95) takes Napa Syrah to an truly unexpected place, as layers of fruity/peppery/floral aromas and flavors are kept bone-dry by wonderfully vibrant zest.
The 2005 Schramsberg North Coast Sparkling Ros, is simple the best domestic example I have ever tasted. It combines the vivid Pinot-based flavors one hopes for, with the chiseled dryness and sophistication of fine French bubbly. I have built several dinners around it, to general applause!
To those who believe that a wines first duty is to be red, yet still want refreshment, I recommend the bright, refreshing and brilliantly food-worthy 2008 Chukker Happy Canyon Cabernet Franc from Santa Barbara ($17.95). For the heartier dishes, like the grilled Rib Eye I had last night, I suggest the Ken Volk's 2007 Negrette, from San Benito County ($23.95). It is impressively refreshing, fairly gutsy, and tastes good with just about everything!
Time to belly-up to the backyard bar!