Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
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Staff Faves from Pinot Days
Frank was quite enthusiastic about some new bottlings he tried and made himself a list of wineries to watch. With James, he liked the Jim Ball Pinot. 2007 barrel samples from Coterie, Bohemian, Kindred and Dain also caught his eye. As did 2006 bottlings from Tamayo; Shandel; Ladd; and Foursight. Among the better-known bottlers, Frank spoke well of the 2006 Goldeneye; B. Koskge's 2006 Hirsch; 2006 Ketcham; the 2006 Sonoma Coast, from WH Smith; Roessler's 2006 Savoy; Laetitia's 2006 Les Galets; and the Salacci and Garys' bottlings from Tantara.
Zoe spoke speak highly of the 2007 Bohemian, a wine made at Crushpad for the owners of the brilliant Cleary Vineyard in Freestone. Both Zoe and Midori concentrated on established producers, however. Zoe found gold at the Belle Glos; Black Kite; Miner; Russian Hill; Pisoni; and Tantara tables. She liked both the Santa Lucia and Marin bottlings from Pey as well, and thought the Taft Street 2006 Sonoma Coast a good value.
Midori's picks included Tantara's powerful young Pisoni; and she liked the fruitiness of the Dain and Papapirtro Perry wines. She loved the Arista Longbow; and every wine poured at the Benovia; Black Kite; and Melville tables. She says that Dutton Goldfield; Dutton Estate; Belle Glos; Roessler; Russian Hill; Morgan; and Davis each poured offerings that impressed her.
Covering the Territory
My own tastings covered a cross-section of new producers, second-timers and personal favorites. Per the time limitations, I skipped tables pouring bottles I had previously tasted, sidestepping some brilliant releases from Melville; Russian Hill; Morgan; Davis; Peay; and Tandem: the later three having already come-and-gone from our shelves.
I unfortunately missed Arista (but will be getting samples next week); Pisoni; and the Ancien table. James tells me that the Ancien wines were delicious, but were previous releases. He speaks well also of the 2006 Kanzler Estate; Failla's Keefer; and of everything at the Melville table.
I never felt the Thomas Road to be Dutton Estate's best wine, but the 2006 is an exception. It displayed attractive zest, fine fruit definition, grace and none of the youthful blockiness I associate with this bottling. The neighboring table, occupied by Dutton-Goldfield was, as always, a showcase for traditional winemaking.
At Dutton-Goldfield, the four vineyard-designated '06 reserves ran from exquisite - Sanchetti and Freestone, to muscular - the McDougal and Devils Gulch. 2006 was a brilliant vintage at DG, with McDougal the weakest link (if there is one). All their '06s will want serious cellar time. but they should be worth the wait.
Talisman poured their 2005s and as in 2004, I found the Thorn Ridge my favorite, followed by the Red Dog and then the Hawk Hill. The Ketcham was excellent in 2006, as were the Roessler Savoy and Sanford & Benedict. The 2006 "Four Set" from Hitching Post, was fine and age-worthy. Laetitia introduced a fine new bottling called La Coupelle, pouring it alongside their gorgeous La Colline and Les Galets.
Filed under intriguing "works in progress" are: various Kosuge bottlings; the Bink 2004 and 2005 from the Weir Vineyard; the 2005 Annapolis; the '06 Ladd Gaps Crown; Lutea's '06 RRV & Reserve; '06 and '07 Fulcrum; '05 Heart of the Mountain, Santa Cruz; and 2006s from Ardiri; and Morobishi.
There is never a shortage of Pinots in that last category.