Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
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Fertile Ground
The Charles Heintz Vineyard, in the Sonoma Coast appellation, produces distinctive, richly textured and flavorful Chardonnays. Some very fine wineries have recognized that quality and a few make vineyard-designated wines from the property: most prominently Williams & Selyem and L'Angevin. Last year, Wine Spectator Magazine gave 94 points to L'Angevin's 2004 Heintz Charddonnay.
The Estate also produces its own Chardonnays: a Reserve named after the vineyard and a fine bargain Chardonnay called Dutch Bill Creek. A darkly rich Pinot Noir fleshes out the portfolio. This month a new winery will debut, adding to the list of those taking advantage of this fertile soil.
Of Another Sort
Peter Michael Winery, which debuted with the 1987 vintage, has been fertile ground in another sense. Expatriates from this prestigious and enormously successful house have moved on to create brilliant wineries of their own. Founding PM winemaker Helen Turley gained recognition and fame for her late-eighties PM Chardonnays and more of both for her own Marcassin label: one of those most sought-after by collectors. Mark Aubert also held the PM winemaker title, until he left to start his own project. Aubert's Chardonnays are now as sought-after as PM's and are significantly harder to find.
Vanessa Wong left her position as Peter Michael's winemaker to join husband Nick Peay and his brother Andy to establish Peay Vineyards in the northern Sonoma Coast. Peay is now as well-regarded for its Pinot Noirs and Syrahs as for its various whites, and Vanessa's wonderful 2006 Estate Chardonnaay is one of the stars of its vintage and is my personal choice for dishes that call for great Chablis.
And Introducing...
For two years NVWE has been tracking a new project from another Peter Michael expatrate, Bill Vyenielo. Bill ended his fourteen-year stint as PM GM to join wife Cathy in founding Baton Winery: dedicated to - guess what - Chardonnay and Pinot. They have now released their debut offerings. These include an age-worthy and richly oaky RRV Pinot Noir from Laguna Ridge Vineyard and a Chardonnay from the Charles Heintz vineyard.
The Pinot I like, but the Chardonnay I adore. The former should reward several years of cellaring to become a rich and distinctive companion to a fine roast. The later is a $49.95 bottling comparable to those of Peter Michael and Chasseur in distinction and intensity. My notes on it follow:
2006 Baton Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast
This is a wonderfully sophisticated wine of great richness. The aromas are deep and complex, as layers of minerals, toasted nuts, white peaches, tarte tatin, pineapple and caramel custard fill the glass. It is luxurious in texture and in flavor, and its elegance is never skewed by any suggestion of heaviness. The finish is wonderfully polished and extremely long: a cascade of ripe peach, baked apple, preserved lemon, toasted nut, custard and pineapple souffle flavors. This is an altogether delicious Chardonnay, which needs little further development. 271 cases were produced.
You might want to try one, before there is a waiting list.