Don's Gillette's Wine Blog
Musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Read Don's full bio...
Email Don directly with your wine-related questions.
Five of a kind, more or less
It is now apparent that 2008 will be the fifth consecutive "great vintage" for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The persistent rumors to that effect were nicely substantiated at the annual Passport to Cabernet barrel tasting, this May.
Each successive vintage has shown a personality of its own, although not every one has been easy to understand at the outset (particularly 2006). The character of 2008 is already clearly defined however, despite its immaturity: wine lovers will be able to recognize it by its concentration.
Winter 2008 was extremely dry and frost damage was a serious issue in the Spring.These and other events resulted in a tiny crop. That may seem a blessing at this point, as the market is currently swamped with fine Cabernets, yet someday we will wish there were more. If there is not much juice, it is apparent that quality in 2008 is consistently exceptional throughout Napa's multiple appellations.
What is especially appealing to me is that this could be a classic grand-scale vintage, without being an overripe one. The statement seems as appropriate in all the valley appellations as well as in the much different mountain areas. This means that even those producers committed to classic elegance and polish will have the raw materials to make wines of impressive longevity.
The most impressive example of the classic-style I have thus far encountered is the gorgeous 2008 Martin Estate Reserve (it reminds of '60s BV Reserves). The intense, yet wonderfully graceful 2008 Arns shows that similar results were possible at higher elevations.
The most powerful and dramatic 2008 I have so far tasted is the Keenan Reserve. It has extraordinary depth and focus; pristinely ripe varietal character; authentic Spring Mountain terroir; and a mountain musculature reminiscent of the great '60s and '70s Cabs of Mayacamas and Ridge.
Other exciting examples poured at the Passport tasting included the tightly-would and powerful '08 Carter "Tokalon" from Oakville; the concentrated and attractively herbal O'Saughnessy from above Arns on Howell mountain; and the vividly fruity Sherwin and Spring Mountain Winery samples.
Cabs blended across appellation lines, like the rich Whitehall Lane Reserve (Rutherford & St Helena fruit), should really benefit from the grape's general success here.
Bye the way, two Paso Robles Cabs poured at Passport were of similar stature. Adelaida's Viking Cab, and Justin's sample (assumed to be headed into 2008 Isoceles) were as rich and vibrantly fruity as the northern wines.
2004 through 2008 looks a bit like a Royal Flush!