Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
Email Don directly with your wine-related questions.
General Topic
July 30, 2007
Another Anniversary! (By NVWE store manager, Denise Johnson)
Before last week I had never written a blog, and now that Im started I can't stop! Don agreed to pass over the keyboard for this week's blog, since I have stumbled onto a theme. It is Anniversaries.
As you may have learned from last weeks promotional email (sent July 24th) Whitehall Lane Winery is celebrating an anniversary, too! The release of the 2004 vintage marks the Silver Anniversary of this esteemed property as 2004 is their 25th Vintage! It is commemorated by the release of the stunning 2004 Whitehall Lane Silver Anniversary Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Our staff has looked forward to the release of this wine for some time, as we have watched it evolve prettily since Don Gillette attended the original barrel blending, a traditional winery party of sorts. I cant say enough good things about this silky, delicious fruit bomb. Click here for Don Gillette's tasting notes on this beauty.
Don't forget . . . this wine is part of our Shop Summer Ship September promotion that allows Half Price Shipping!
Whitehall Lane Winery had a few other owners before being purchased by the Leonardini Family in 1993. In the ensuing years, the winery has increased their vineyard holdings from the originally purchased (fully replanted) 20 acres, to approximately 110 acres of prime valley-floor vineyards in the districts of Rutherford, St. Helena and Oak Knoll. These vineyard purchases have enabled Whitehall Lane to produce wines from some of the finest valley-floor fruit grown in the Napa Valley. They have full control over the growth, selection and harvesting of their grapes. These advantages, combined with the keen winemaking skill of the talented Dean Sylvester, have resulted in continually increasing quality and flavor, as evidenced by the fine 2004 Silver Anniversary Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Owner Tom Leonardini reports great things ahead with vintages 2005 and 2006, in barrel and bottle now!
Posted by Don on July 30, 2007 12:40 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
August 6, 2007
My Third and Last Anniversary Blog! (By NVWE store manager, Denise Johnson)
I got on an anniversary-themed roll and told Don I would take over his blogging duties for 3 weeks and then be done with it. Next Monday, watch for Don Gillette's blog to return! In the meantime, I have one more Anniversary to mention and that is the Twentieth Anniversary of the Napa Valley Winery Exchange.
Our Twentieth Anniversary is on May 1, 2008! It is hard to believe that we are coming upon this milestone. So much has changed since we opened our doors so long ago. Between now and that time, don't be surprised if we write little stories (in different publications) about how different things were then. For example, we had a cash register and only used a computer for word processing. We had not yet heard of a cell phone, the internet or email. There was virtually no good California Pinot Noir. Ronald Reagan was president. Kristen Kettell was single!
During the next several months, read this blog and other printed materials produced by our store for different trivia questions about the history of Napa Valley Winery Exchange. There will be prizes! Here is the first one: What was the name of the hotel directly next door to our store (on the south side; the left if you are facing our store) prior to its becoming the Serrano Hotel? The first person to email the correct answer to me, denise@nvwe.com, wins a bottle of 2003 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs, shipped to your doorstep. (I will include a champagne "stopper" - a closure device - if you can name the coffeeshop that was in the hotel!)
Staff and former staff not eligible - Good luck!
Posted by Don on August 6, 2007 9:05 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
August 20, 2007
A Lament for Lost Apples, sort of... [Part one]:
The Gravenstein is a tasty apple and a good one to cook with. Before the advent of nation-wide cold storage it was a popular one as well, available in stores when other apple varieties were not. In its heyday, it was the staple agricultural crop of Sonoma's Russian River Valley. At the crossroads of Highway 116 and Occidental Road the giant Vacu-Dry apple warehouse still exists, although it is no longer utilized for the processing of the now humble Gravenstein crop.
There is nostalgia for the passing of any era and many valley locals no-doubt remember the apple harvests fondly. This isn't a tragic tale however, because the Gravenstein trees - now mostly gone - grew in some of the most Pinot Noir-friendly soil in the world. Today there are vineyards nearly everywhere in the RRV and the once-idle apple processing plants are beginning to gear-up again, although the expansive stadium-grade restrooms built for the use of seasonal packers now seem a bit out of place. It isn't nostalgia that draws visitors to the property now known as Owl Ridge Wine Services, however.
These days, the huge buildings provide working space for de-stemmers, presses, fermenting tanks, oak barrels, bottling machines and the artisan winemakers that tend them. The corner is home to the wines of Adrian Fog, Cal Star, Halleck, Londer, MacPhail, Owl Ridge, Tandem, Willowbrook and a fair group (34 in all) of others, including Bill Hunter's Chasseur.
While many wineries share a corner or a wall space in one of the cavernous main rooms, Chasseur's digs consist of three high-ceilinged rooms, each with distinctively different temperature and humidity, along with equipment geared to match the needs of Bill's meticulous winemaking procedures. Already having an intimate familiarity with Chasseur's great 2005 "vineyard designated" Chardoonay and Pinot Noir bottlings, I was there to sample 2006s in barrel.
2006, in the north coast, is a vintage with high peaks of ripeness and quality, but also with valleys. A few lucky vintners - Halleck is an example - seem to have achieved full ripeness in every one of their vineyards. Most however, will have barrels that may show good complexity yet lack the generosity and completeness of a great vintage. The best producers, and Chasseur is one of them, will "declassify" those lots into RRV or Sonoma Coast blends, where the classy fruit can work to elevate the final product.
Posted by Don on August 20, 2007 8:42 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
August 27, 2007
A Lament for Lost Apples, sort of... [Part two]:
The barrels of Chardonnay we tasted at Chasseur were delicious and notable for length of aftertaste, although most fell short of the near-perfection Bill Hunter achieved in 2005. A barrel of Durrel Vineyard (usually tight upon release) was surprisingly forward and charming; the Sangiacomo was leaner and crisper than usual, but very long, the Bertoli Vineyard (RRV) sample was both weighty and zesty, with lots of white peach. The star was the Lorenzo, with a flinty backbone and exotic candied lemon peel and honeycomb complexities like a Corton-Charlemagne. Not much to declassify here!
Bill may plan more declassification amongst the Pinot barrels, but there were plenty of fine ones to taste, including two from new vineyard sources. A sample of Terra de Promisso from the Sonoma Coast, was packed with Italian cherry, raspberry, boysenberry and red rose. We tried three barrels from Umino Vineyard on Blucher Valley road in the RRV, Each from a different clonal lot: clone 667, a blast of cherries, Mr. Lincoln roses and orange zest, reminded me of Bill's 2004 Joyce Pinot; clone 777 was dark, smoky and leathery, over lots of boysenberry; clone 459 had a red fruit orientation, with yellow rose, red plums, crabapple syrup, boysenberry and orange peel all playing a part.
A barrel from the Blank Road Vineyard, first introduced last year, was bright and floral to the nose, powerful and full of cherries on the palate and long and racy at the finish.
My favorite among Chasseur's '04 and '05 reserve-level Pinots has been the Freestone Vineyard bottling, yet all of those wines were brilliant, so we will need to see what time achieves in the cellar before we really try to rank them. We tried two barrels of '06 Freestone: clone 115 was citric-edged but of exquisite elegance, with yellow rose, red plum and wild cherry flavors; clone 777 had a darker, smokier character, with Italian cherry, plum, red and yellow rose and some Oriental spice hints. There was certainly nothing to declassify in this group either!
I live in San Francisco's Sunset District, the windy west-side, and a Gravenstein apple tree struggles to give me a dozen or so apples each season. The whole crop sits right now in a bowl on my dining table. They are tasty and I will miss them when they are gone -- but not all that much.
Posted by Don on August 27, 2007 10:44 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
September 2, 2007
Pinot Noir: Air it -- but try not to shake it
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Young Pinots sometimes are reserved when first opened and airing, to a point, can help. Pinots are not fond of being shaken however and some go to sleep after travel. Both effects are noticeable to aware retailers and restaurateurs, although any "occasional" problem is hard to track or predict. Wine magazines, I believe, seldom look closely at this or any other topic which might reflect on the accuracy of their point scores.
Salesmen pour Pinots here at NVWE nearly every day. Salesman can be careless with samples, leaving wine in the trunk of a car for days at a time, or showing bottles that have been open much too long. Most salesmen we see, after weeding out careless ones for the last 19 years, are quite conscientious.
Problems still crop up though. I can recall many instances where a Pinot sample opened at NVWE failed to excite and was not purchased, yet later proved to be spectacular when tasted elsewhere. This is a painful surprise if the wine has sold out in the meantime!
ON SHAKY GROUND
I keenly remember how disappointed I was with the samples of 2003 Dutton-Goldfield Sanchetti and 2003 Russian Hill Tara Pinot that I tasted at our store. Weeks later, I had "settled" bottles of each at two separate dinners in the Russian River Valley. Both proved on re-tasting to be classic RRV Pinots: stars of what turned out to be a great vintage! My surprise and disappointment turned to outright dismay as I recalled that each NVWE sample had been "same day delivered" from the winery, by my salesman at my request. These bottles were shaken beyond recognition after only 80 miles in a car!
This is not a problem with most Pinots, which cross the country, yet drink brilliantly upon arrival. The effect is random. So what should one do? Williams Selyem, perhaps our most famous Pinot producer, has always recommended "resting" shipped bottles after arrival, just to be safe. Sound advice, if you're not thirsty or planning a comparative tasting that has time constraints.
COMING UP FOR AIR
The weird thing is that young Pinots do like air. Again this can be a random situation. Rick Longoria recently released his wonderful 2005 Fe Ciega SRH Pinot and, with three bottles tasted so far, the bottles have been uniformly marvelous immediately upon opening.
In contrast, the 2005 Ketchum RRV Pinot seems simple, tight and overripe upon opening, but appears elegant, refined, complex and obviously age-worthy after airing for several hours. The 2005 Tandem Auction Block RRV, a jammy "California" monster, becomes a racy Burgundy-style beauty at the dinner table; if it is opened in the am. The deeper, more youthful bottlings, seem to be the ones where such treatment is appropriate.
SOME SIMPLE ADVICE
When customers ask how to handle a tight young Pinot, my suggestion is to have a glass when you start cooking or before, then replace the cork and revisit the wine at dinner. I personally try never to shake up or decant Pinots, although I will gently decant mature ones to avoid sediment.
However, if the Fedex or UPS guy shows up with your next bottle and you are thirsty, drink it! Life is too short to worry about random events. Remember this: Pinot Noir -- so seductive and so different from other wines -- is always a "work in progress." Exploring its mysteries is much more fun than reading long-winded essays from people like me.
Posted by Don on September 2, 2007 8:05 PM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
October 29, 2007
California Merlot: A Split Personality
I have never studied statistical probability, but what are the odds that:
A -- The truly fine California Merlots you have tried came from Napa Valley.
B -- You will find a truly fine California Merlot that did not come from Napa Valley.
I think that the answer is, in the case of:
A -- Remarkably close to 100%.
B -- Dispiritingly close to 0%.
You are welcome to dispute my logic by citing contrary examples. In a generous mood, I might concede a few bottlings from Matanzas Creek or Ridge Vineyards. The marketplace showcases the quality disparity clearly, although not every consumer sees all the implications.
The overwhelming majority of nationally marketed California Merlots are indifferently produced products, from vineyards outside the valley. (I personally lump Pope Valley Merlots, which can carry the general Napa appellation, into this group. PV is a distant Napa suburb, which produces little that resembles true Napa Valley fruit in quality.)
Those mass-market bottlings are responsible for the terrible reputation our Merlots have in much of the country. I think drinkers should lobby the BATF for a new bottling designation, "Colored Water", to better categorize them.
At the same time, real Napa Valley Merlot is expensive, and it is scarce outside our state. That combination makes it likely that a substantial percentage of the buying public will never even try a fine California Merlot. The attitude of many Napa Merlot growers, reinforced by financial realities, does little to help.
Most Napa Merlot growers believe that it is economic madness to grow the stuff if you can't get $40.00 or more when you sell it. After all, Napa land is a huge investment that comes with a hefty mortgage. Growers know they can get "their price" for quality Cabernet planted in the same soil, so: "why plant Merlot at all, if it is not very profitable"?
The few wineries (Whitehall Lane is an example) that sell NV Merlot for under $30.00, are viewed as either fools or crackpot philanthropists by many of their peers. For similar reasons, much of our best Merlot fruit goes into Meritage blends: mix a $50.00 Cab with a $35.00 Merlot and you may well create a $125.00 Reserve!
There are some really good mid-priced Napa Merlots however, and lots of fairly priced Merlot-dominated blends. Try a Whitehall, or a Keenan, or the 2005 Stephano Valeri, or the new 2005 Coho Heatwaters, with 81% Michael Black Vineyard Merlot. All are tasty now, and age-worthy.
If you really want to experience a great California (aka Napa) Merlot, like a Paloma, Keenan Matchbook Reserve or Duckhorn 3 Palms: just grit your teeth, reach for the checkbook and pretend its Reserve Cabernet.
Posted by Don on October 29, 2007 9:28 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
November 5, 2007
On Sabbatical
I got a message at work this week from my old buddy Robert. I hooked up with him on the phone the next day. We hadn't spoken in two or three years, but in about 30 seconds we were back in our old conversational mode.
Robert was an original 1980s Napa Valley Winery Exchange customer. In those days, his business required that he keep apartments in both San Francisco and Florida, although his residence was in Omaha. He was a restaurant habitue and became something of an NVWE scout, suggesting new wines to us that he had tasted with sommelier friends. The 1991 Selene Merlot was a debut he introduced to us.
He enjoys fine white wines but, as far as his cellar is concerned, the first obligation of any wine is to be red. Although his preference is for the grapes of Bordeaux and Burgundy (wherever they are grown) he also enjoys exploring Zins. Rhone-ish or Italianate blends, and other richly flavored pleasures.
Several years ago, Robert traded most of his stockpile of maturing upscale Cabs and Bordeaux reds to an importer of fine Burgundies. In that trade, he received a stash of Premier and Grand Cru French Pinots from outstanding vintages. He gave himself up to the near-exclusive exploration of those wines and took a lengthy sabbatical from the home-grown produce.
Back in the Hunt
The call was to inform me that he was ready to rediscover the pleasures of California and see what he has missed. I told him that he would be in for a surprise, as places we had explored together in the 1990s (such as the Green Valley, where about one hundred new vineyards have sprouted up) would now be nearly unrecognizable. He was not only game, he was itching to start drinking.
It was just like the old days. He chose a twelve-bottle mix: five Cabs, three Meritages, three Pinots and a Syrah-Merlot blend. I know Robert's methodology. He will pull a cork and sit down to an evening of sipping. If he gets excited, he will take some to a favorite restaurant to share with the sommelier. Not a bad way to live, really.
Posted by Don on November 5, 2007 10:10 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
November 12, 2007
2006 California Pinot Noir: the early returns
It has been quite a hot streak for the grape. 2002 was an eye opener, with brilliant examples north to south and enough quantity to share the wealth. 2003 was perfection in the RRV and fine elsewhere. 2004 was ripe and juicy in most of the state and was classic in parts of the Sonoma Coast and in Santa Lucia. 2005 produced an ocean of brilliant Pinots from up and down California, including Santa Barbara's best crop in memory and brilliant wines in the Anderson Valley, RRV and in Santa Lucia. What of 2006?
Here we go again?
The quality of the 2006s I have seen so far, suggests that a high number of very fine Pinots can be expected and that some of them will certainly qualify as great. I am speaking here of wines from the serious producers, leaving corporate hacks and inveterate Bozos out of the equation. The personality of the vintage appears to be rather schizophrenic, however. This will create challenges for my coworkers and I and pretty much guarantees that confusing messages will be forthcoming from the wine press.
I say schizophrenic, because there are lots of peaks and valleys and unexpected surprises in 2006. Who would expect Melville's "Vernas" Pinot to out perform their "SRH Estate"? It is especially weird, as their 2006 "SRH" Chardonnay is fantastic! And was anyone expecting a superbly balanced and super-racy and focused 2006 "Rosella's" from Loring Wine Company?
More locally, I have tasted brilliant wines from people like Halleck, Russian Hill, Chasseur and Dutton-Goldfield. Despite this, Chasseur and Dutton-Goldfield will be declassifying multiple "vineyard designates" into RRV and Sonoma Coast blends. The weather was, at times, perfect in vineyard A, but more fickle at site B, a few blocks westward. These en-richened RRV and Sonoma Coast blends could prove to be hot bargains, bye the way.
Some 2006s are quite forward and easy to understand, like the Loring, or the new Bohan-Dillon from the northern Sonoma Coast or the fabulous Breggo "Ferrington" and "Donnally" bottlings from Anderson Valley. Black Kite will soon be releasing a very fine AV blend as well, but I have had some AV Pinots that were downright watery.
Other '06s, like the diverse new group from Dain, have me wishing the producer would have waited a few months for the wines to better reveal themselves. I spent two days re-tasting the tightly wrapped Dains before I gained enthusiasm for them.
Oh well, this is an early report and it certainly won't be the last one. We'll just have to ride the wave and surf only on the crests.
Posted by Don on November 12, 2007 6:53 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
February 19, 2008
Varietal Definition in the New World [Part one]
Until the 20th Century, Merlot was not generally regarded by wine writers as a "noble" grape. The quality and fame of Chateau Petrus and other Bordeaux estates gradually changed the minds of the skeptics. The list of "noble" grapes is well established these days, but what of how they perform in Australia, Africa, New Zealand or in the western hemisphere? Are they noble anywhere we plant them, or even similar? What is the definition of varietal? It seems, thankfully, to be elastic.
When Beringer released the 1987 Bancroft Vineyard Merlot from Howell Mountain, the wines distinctive character was considered "non-varietal" by some wine writers. The wine was delicious however, and the successful vintages that followed broadened the accepted varietal definition of Merlot. When Ladera made a great Howell Mountain Merlot, some twenty years later, there was no discussion of its varietal accuracy at all.
This had happened before. Since 1952, Penfolds Winery in Australia has made a great Syrah called Grange. It has been recognized as a world-class wine for a long time now, yet it tastes nothing like great French Syrahs like those of Jaboulet or Chave, which were the traditional standards. Connoisseurs just had to recalibrate their palates to get used to it.
The great, but distinctively herbal-accented, "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernets from Napa Valley had to fight skeptics for acceptance, particularly in France. I can remember having to "defend" the varietal accuracy of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Black cherry has been a common descriptor in the RRV, but not so in Burgundy, although Bing cherry and other cherry flavors are common. This used to be cited Francophiles as a "flaw" in the wine!
When is a wine accurately varietal and who decides?
There is no committee of standards on this subject, but I think that if you establish an authentic clone of a noble grape in entirely new territory, you are likely to get one of three results:
1 - Something unexciting and lacking in character, which despite the vintner's honest efforts, fails to capture the flavor intensity, depth or charm that was hoped for.
2 - A wine whose character attractively parallels the bottlings grown where the grape is historically successful.
3 - A wine whose character is significantly different from the bottlings grown where the grape is historically successful, yet is otherwise virtuous and appealing.
Posted by Don on February 19, 2008 1:28 PM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
March 4, 2008
Varietal Definition in the New World - Part Two
New World growers and winemakers are looking for category 2. Although they are pioneers, they are invariably trying to create something close to a historically successful bottling that they have been personally attracted to. The financial viability of their project is also seen in terms of how successfully they are able to do that. Categories 1 and 3 can only be regarded as the up and down sides of an expensive gamble.
In California, I think that we are likely to see a lot more of category 3 in the near future. No one is looking for a gamble, but people are planting like crazy and doing it with a vastly wider and better palate of grape clones. Because of access to those clones, growers are revisiting some areas that had to some extent been written off.
In the 1990s, newly available Pinot clones unleashed the potential of the Green Valley, the Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Rita Hills and the Sonoma Coast, and planting in those areas exploded. Growers know that it is possible that better clones of Syrah or some other grape might reveal similar possibilities hidden elsewhere, and they are planting again in places like the Sierra Foothills, long considered a minor viticultural area, with just that in mind.
Does the whole world lie waiting behind door number 3?
Some of the early results may not seem strictly "varietal" to all drinkers, but the quality of the product could quickly change some minds. A few recent examples from the Sierra Foothills are especially interesting, a Dolcetto from Due Vigne and a pair of Rhone-based reds from Prospect 772.
The 2004 and 2005 Due Vigne Dolcettos do not have the freshness, soft-fruitiness, round mouth-feel and dark berry fruit profile of the typical Italian Dolcetto. What they do have is a focused, crisply stated, slightly tannic firmness that gears them toward sauced dishes like veal scaloppini. They also have an expansive aromatic and flavor profile centered around Amarena cherry, with cranberry, cinnamon and mineral accents. The 2005 is just about to be released.
Prospect 772 produced two truly brilliant wines from the humble Caliveras County appellation. The "Brat" is a Grenache/Syrah blend from new plantings. It steers clear of the pale fruitiness and flavor simplicity commonly seen here, delivering a mouth-drenching blast of dark fruits and savory spices on an Operatic scale more typical of great Australian Shiraz than anything normally found in the Foothills.
The "Brawler", Prospect 772s Syrah, blends a bit of Viognier in (ala J L Chave Hermitage), but doesn't offer the racy, tight-backboned feel of Chave, nor that wines red fruit and mineral character. What is delivered is a massive, tightly wrapped, but seamlessly elegant package of red and black fruits, savory spices, roasted meats and exotic peppers. These beauties were released just a few weeks ago, but sold out in a flash, after customers saw what they were.
I doubt that the owners of Due Vigne and Prospect 772 could have either planned for, or predicted such results. Whatever those pioneers were hoping for, I suspect they are delighted with what they found. Lets hear it for door number 3!
Posted by Don on March 4, 2008 7:14 AM |Permalink | TrackBacks (0)
April 21, 2008
Awash in Pinot
I know that I will soon grow tired of talking about Pinot Noir, if not of tasting it. As someone who tries between 40 and 200 wines per week I would hope and expect to have a diverse set of wine topics, yet this one keeps jumping into view.
I have said before that 2006 is going to be an important "reserve" vintage. By this, I meant that those who kept their best fruit separate would almost certainly be able to market some great wine. I am convinced that there is so much outstanding fruit available that 2006 must be seen as a great vintage, although it's up-and-down nature has proven worrisome to most winemakers.
That opinion has been primarily based on northern California releases, but in the last few weeks I have seen more clear evidence of the same pattern in the important southern Pinot appellations.
Some good ones
Laetitia both sells fruit and markets a variety of Pinots from their large property. Their two outstanding, if quite different, bottlings are labeled Les Galets and La Colline. The 2006s are brilliant, with the darker, plusher Les Galets a fruit-forward beauty, packed with Bing cherries and Oolong tea, and the tightly-wound and even more cellar-worthy La Colline a racy mix of red currant, pomegranate, red licorice and roasted grain.
Tantara, a small Santa Maria Valley Pinot specialist, also makes a Le Colline. Tantara's 2006 is brilliant, and is a near clone of the Laetitia. These folks have made wonderfully age-worthy Pisoni bottlings for years and their 2006 is impressive, if not quite as focused as their La Colline, or as fruit forward as their delicious cherry and red rose dominated Soloman Hills. These are just a tip of the Tantara iceberg, as this little winery will sometimes market more than twenty wines.
At Home in the Highlands
I won't go into detail about the myriad of fine Santa Lucia Highlands Pinots I have lately seen, but watch out for the just-released 2006s from Morgan and Loring and Siduri. I plan to try anything and everything made from Rosella's vineyard in '06, as it looks to have been generally even more successful than the Garys', although the Kosta-Browne versions may be close to even.
Not much has yet appeared from the Pisoni, so the jury is still out, although Gary Pisoni's Estate, scheduled for fall release, is certainly a killer. Belle Glos' Las Alturas 2006 is another fine effort, while the '06 Paraiso Estate and Summerland's Monterey are hot values. The Black Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains, is the first fine SCM I have seen, although it's early yet.
Next week, I promise to return to Cabs and Chardonnays, etc...