Don's Gillette's Wine Blog
Musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Read Don's full bio...
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Versatile Viognier and the Wasabi-Chili Playpen
Friday Afternoon
I was at work, tasting through some wines that were potential candidates for our next newsletter. Two were re-tastes. The week before, Denise and I had liked a Sangiovese and Viognier we tried at a trade event. She ordered samples so the rest of the staff could judge them. The Viognier was a 2007 from Ketcham, that winery's first ever. I had forgotten to chill it, so I briefly put it in the fridge while I tasted through about fifteen others.
When I got to to the Viognier, it was just below room temperature. I never intentionally taste Viognier warm, as the wine is usually rich in alcohol, Viognier being a grape that develops its fullest flavor-range when picked at great ripeness. As expected, the temperature made judging more difficult. The alcohol seemed elevated, while the wines elegant mix of fruit and mineral elements seemed askew.
To the rescue came my coworker, Midori. Just back from lunch at her favorite sushi-bar. She carried an extra California Roll: a gift for me. Viognier and sushi adore each other, so I opened the container and let the combination perform its magic.
The impression of alcohol disappeared at once. The wines mineral notes coaxed sweetness from the crab filling, while its bright lime flavor snuggled up to the avocado. The nose-clearing heat of the wasabi evaporated: I could add all I wanted with no harsh surprises or blunting of the other flavors. By the last piece, I was playing with how much wasabi I could tolerate. Some would contend that I have somewhat unusual ideas about what constitutes play.
Saturday Night
As punishment for my previous sins, God sees to it that it is brutally hard to find fine avocados in the Bay Area. I grew up in LA and spent 7 years in Santa Barbara, practically existing on avocados, but no more. Some kindly relatives from southern California, conscious of my plight of their Christian duty, had just sent me a dozen. I was at home, and mercifully found myself well-stocked with Pale Ale.
In preparation, I had thawed-out a pound of cocktail shrimp and bought some sourdough bread.
I minced:
about 5 tablespoons of onion
a six inch piece of celery
1/3 of a Claussen kosher dill pickle
1 bright red Fresno chili (no seeds)
I added:
I large teaspoon Tulelake Old Fashioned Horseradish
1/4 cup+ Homade Chili Sauce
1/2 cup+ Best Foods Mayonaise
1/2 the juice of a large lemon
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
a pinch of salt
1 scant teaspoon of El Yucateco Green Habanero Sauce (green Tabasco works well, but is milder)
I mixed it with a fork and tossed the shrimp into it. Then I sliced two avocados and drizzled them with lime juice. I put the shrimp on a platter, along with some sweet cherry tomatoes and the avocado. I cut up two sourdough rolls into1/2 inch slices to dip in the runny shrimp sauce.
Of course it was delicious with the beer. I kept cursing myself though because I couldn't play, by adding more Habanero sauce, as I had no Viognier handy. The next time I get some avocados I will be better prepared!