Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
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Valance - Halfway to Howell
Mund Road, in the little town of Deer Park, sits at 600 feet in elevation on the way up Napa's Howell Mountain. Being below the 1,200 foot mark, it does not qualify for the Howell Mountain appellation and wines made from its vineyards have always been labeled simply "Napa Valley". Until recently, I knew of only three vineyards on Mund Road, although each was of significant quality.
John Arns and partner/winemaker Sandi Belcher, have since 1992 produced a fine Cabernet from vines John's family planted in the 1960s. Prior to 1992, Arns sold most of his fruit to Randy Dunn. Grapes for Rick Forman's powerfully constructed Cabs are also grown on Mund Road. David Abreu, possibly Napa's most well known vineyard manager and owner of the cult-status Madrona vineyard, also has property here. Abreu's fairly new and already much admired property is called Thorevilos.
Last week I tasted a new Mund Road Cabernet. This one was different in style than the others, but similar in quality and appeal. Valance is a sleek, rich, red currant-red cherry dominated Cabernet, with class, structure and length. It's style and fruit character remind me of the 1968-1970 era Robert Mondavi Reserves. The 2002 Valance is already delicious, but it grew more nuanced and appealing over the several days I had it open. Its neighbors are all good agers, and four more years of cellaring should make the Valance an even more elegant and impressive wine.
Owners Michael and Valerie Raymor have produced their own private bottlings from the property for years. The low-yielding vines of this three acre vineyard produce four barrels annually and made only ninety cases in 2002, the second year of its commercial production. NVWE was able to procure less than ten cases of this new Cab and several of those will be set aside for the June edition of our High Rolllers Cab Club, so act soon if you want to try one.