Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
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Hospices of Sonoma
In Burgundy, a charity auction, the "Hospices de Beaune" is held annually to benefit the local hospital. Lots from the upcoming vintage are auctioned, offering a preview of its quality and a "relative" if elevated, price-scale for the wines. The Napa Valley auction (which generates astounding prices, largely for Cabernets) is loosely patterned after the Beaune event. The newer Hospices of Sonoma auction is a showcase exclusively for Pinot Noir producers.
This was its fourth year and I was in attendance, lucky enough to be invited by Ellen Mack and Ed Gomez, owners of Russian Hill Winery. About 40 wineries participated. Each offered a half-barrel of 2006 Pinot, split into two five case bidding lots. Almost all lots were unique blends, although a few producers chose instead to offer an early version of an upcoming release.
The quality of wine offered was amazingly high and some lots fetched astronomical prices. Most of the highly bid wines were outstanding, yet their prices tended to reflect more a vintner's recent magazine scores and public recognition than a lots quality relative to other lots on display.
The high bid, $12,000.00, was for a Kosta Browne lot labeled Keefer Ranch Clone 23. This unique wine was, in truth, the best Keefer Pinot sample I ever tasted and was unusually feminine for a KB effort.
My own three favorite wines were a rich "Farm" and "Hallberg" vineyard blend from Halleck; a darkly flavorful "Tera", "Leras" and "Meredith" blend from Russian Hill; and a beautifully sleek and expressive six vineyard blend from Chasseur.
I admired, for differing reasons, lots from Freeman, Davis, MacPhail, Sonoma Coast, Gary Farrell, Deloach, Dutton Goldfield, Dutton Estate, Flowers, Radio-Coteau, Marimar, Emeritus, Tandem and others. I would cite the exquisite delicacy of the Freeman, the direct richness of the Davis and the unctuous fruitiness of the Macphail as examples of the versatility on display.
It was a fancy event, with brilliant appetizers, a delicious dinner, musical entertainment (too loud) and a table of newly bottled Pinots from all the participating vintners. I didn't taste the Kosta Browne, Halleck and several other beauties, but I left a well-fed and smiling guest. At the end, I snuck out with half-filled bottles of my two favorites, the distinctive and wonderfully sinuous 2004 Russian Hill "Tara" and the aristocratically elegant and seductively fruity 2005 Chasseur "Freestone Station."