Don's Gillette's Weekly Wine Blog
Weekly musings from our store's resident wine guru
Don has over thirty years experience in the wine industry. For the last eighteen years his attention has been focused on the growing local industry. Don has a large following of customers who search out his opinions (never in short supply!) on new releases and on what's currently most distinctive on our shelves. Others seek his insights on wineries and trends that are still under the radar. Check back here each week for Don's latest thoughts on various wine-related topics. Read Don's full bio...
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Not an Accident -- Part Two
It is no mistake that Cabernet is the red grape of choice in Napa Valley and I almost never go Cab-tasting there without reward. Having lingered too long at Joseph Phelps, we were now time-pressed, so we skipped a more elaborate lunch in favor of a quick fuel-up at Taylor's Refresher. A Napa Valley standby, Taylor's offers gourmet takeout food in a 1950s era drive-in, with a large shade covered lawn and picnic tables for its patrons.
Our post-lunch stop was a long planned visit to Ramian Estate. I had spent the previous three months telling all who would listen that the 2004 Ramian 'Chapter 4' from Mount Veeder grapes, was a "better Opus One than Opus One". I had heard that there were multiple projects on the premises and was anxious for a first-hand look.
Ramian is housed within the Silenus custom-crush facility and tasting room, located 1/2 block west of Highway 29, and 1/2 mile north of Oak Knoll road (at Darms Lane). Silenus turned out to be full of interesting surprises! Ramian's winemaker and owner, Brian Graham, supervises other labels under the same roof and had numerous side-projects of his own to show us.
At my request, we re-tasted the 2004 Chapter 4. To my great pleasure, it has grown even more sophisticated and charming since I last tasted it. Pattie thought it was better than the '04 Phelps Insignia! As fine as the new 2004 Opus One is, and (at $179.95) it's the best Opus in several years, it is not nearly as fine as the similarly styled Ramian is (at $47.49!).
Ramian has also produced a seductive and age-worthy 2004 Dolcetto-Nebbiolo blend, called La Morra. It is elegant and focused, but firmly structured and brilliantly designed for food-service. Brian also gave us a Ramian barrel-tasting tour which included an impressive 2006 Ramian Chapter, a brilliant Napa Merlot and an exotically rich 2006 Roussanne.
Brian introduced us to Ron Houle, and his 60 case production Due Vigne di Famiglia Napa Valley Cabernet, which was a gorgeous and very elegant discovery. We quickly ordered 5 cases when Ron offered them. Silenus itself, is owned by Robert Williamson, whose Williamson Family Estate Winery has two fine 2006 Napa Chardonnays: a supple Un-Oaked bottling; and a creamier, more sophisticated Barrel Fermented version.
Our final stop was to meet Gerich, Mark and owner Steve, at Anomaly Winery in St Helena, to try their 2004 Meritage. Like its 2002 and 2003 siblings, it proved rich, harmonious and full of appealing herbal spice. It will be a great companion to rich winter fare, but we could have easily polished off a bottle all by itself.
As I said, I am rarely disappointed when I go Cab hunting in Napa.
