Things to be Greatfull for in 2009
December 31, 2009
I don’t know anyone who isn’t glad that 2009 is over. In too many ways it was a trial for us all. Yet for the wine consumer and salesman it was a year when – assuming that both were still employed – the marketplace was packed with wonderful things.
What follows is a random and by no ways complete list of wine news that pleased me personally in 2009. Forgive me if I forget things that were important in January or March in favor of more recent events, as such “senior moments” come often to me these days.
Most upbeat year-long topic: The near-endless supply of fine 2007 Pinots. A disappointing bottle from such a vintage could only lower ones estimation of its winemaker. All but the truly incompetent made delicious ’07s.
Best indication of my future job security: The maturation of all those great young Pinot Noir vineyards.
Next best indication of my own job security: An orderly progression through five straight outstanding Napa Cabernet vintages: 2004-2008.
Most helpful recent trend: Three fine Chardonnay harvests on the shelves at once: 2006-2008. The best 2007s are as good as it gets. Anyone tasting a “regular” ’07 bottling from Chasseur or Lewis will get the picture.
Best new Chardonnay producer: Clearly Morlet, although for Tiffany prices one should get a pretty jewel.
Other likable trends: Napa Cabernet “appellation blends”, like Whitehall Lanes’ St Helena and Rutherford bottlings. Fancy Pink Bubblies like those from Schramsberg & Roederer. $60.00 Cabs for under $40.00.
Best reasons to gulp Sauvignon Blanc: 2007 Grgich Hills; 2008 Signaterra Shone Farm.
Indications we should plant more Italian varietals in California: 2008 Palmina Arneis; 2008 Mahoney Vermentino.
Best reason to collect Merlot: 2007 Paloma.
Best Cab Franc in memory: 2006 Keenan.
Good excuses to buy Syrah: Lewis, Peay, Roar, Lucia & Spotted Owl.
Top pourers at Zap 2009: Seghesio and Gamba.
Favorite new Cab producers (both 2006s from Napa): Malk – from a plot astride the famous Fay vineyard in Stags Leap; and Boeschen – next to Chabot vineyard, at the base of Howell Mountain.
My personal favorite “Eureka!” moment: Learning where the Malk vineyard was located after describing that 2006 Cab as “Cask 23-like”.
Winery of the year: Bill Hunter’s Chasseur. With 6 fine-to-great whites and about 11 fine-to-historic Pinots. No one else was really even close.
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