Spring 2008 - Issue Number 61
Reflecting on Twenty Years!
By Denise Johnson
It was an unseasonably hot Monday morning in May, twenty years ago, when we first opened our front door for business. I remember the day clearly. The staff was Kristen Kettell, Caroline Ducato and myself, and we had one customer that day. He worked across the street and boughtone bottle of wine. He paid cash.
We had a lot of wine in the store when we opened and enough money in the bank to ride out the slow first year. I can tell you what we didn't have: a computer, a fax machine, an email address, a website, a stock person or a reputation. Six months passed. We sold some wine and one day a scary looking guy came in and told Kristen he had a gun and held her up. The next day we decided that we needed a big guy to work there, and he had to be a wine expert, because we felt we were maybe in a little over our heads! Enter Don Gillette and his (then) 15 years of California wine expertise. He wowed us!
The three of us have been here pretty much the whole 20 years. A couple of years later James Jackson joined our staff and he too has stayed. Many others have come and gone, but our current staff of ten feels solid and permanent to me.
Over the years, there have been several obstacles to our success. In 1989 there was the Big Earthquake, which broke a few bottles and rattled our nerves, but caused even more damage by bringing tourism to a crawl for a long time. The "earthquake" slowdown was nothing compared to the screeching halt in travel that we experienced after the events of September 11, 2001, which came right on the heels of the dot-com crash of 2000. However these obstacles are insignificant next to the many bright spots in our store's history.
In 2007, Conde Nast Traveler's Annual Readers' Choice Awards ranked San Francisco as the top U.S. travel destination for the 18th consecutive year! It is a great place to live, work and sell wine. Overall, our store sees a steady flow of traveling wine lovers who are a pleasure to meet and work with. We also see a steady flow of great wine from a seemingly unstoppable force of new and exciting small wineries. Introducing and selling these wines to our customers barely seems like work. Every year brings more and more customers and the future is rosy.
We increasingly rely on our website and emails as a way of getting information to our customers. You can expect to see more customized emails in the future. Cabernet emails to Cab lovers, Zin emails to Zin lovers etc.
And did you know we now have a second website in Japanese?
Take a look: www.nvwe.com/jp
We have evolved to where the Napa Valley Winery Exchange staff is making two wines, one to be released later this year! And we have a store remodel scheduled for this spring. Our21st year, 2008, should be a busy one!
It is hard for us to imagine what changes the next twenty years will bring! Almost certainly, most of these changes will be dictated by technology and maybe some new wine appellations, too. Who knows, maybe there will even be new cloned grapes varietals and virtual wine tasting! Hmm... I think I'll continue to taste mine the old fashioned way!
Thank you, great customers, for a splendid 20 years!
Halleck
Alchemy in the Russian River Valley
By Don Gillette
Since last summer we have awaited the release of Jennifer and Ross Halleck's 2006 Pinot Noirs, among the most impressive barrel samples we tasted last year. Four of them, along with two brilliant whites, are now for sale.
The Hallecks, and winemaker Rick Davis, do all that needs doing with this difficult yet rewarding grape. They own or contract for distinctive, well-farmed vineyards and conscientiously give each wine just what it seems to want. Especially impressive is the harmony they achieve between fruit and oak.
Heady ripeness and early flash are not goals here, although style, flavor and age-ability certainly are. All the Halleck Pinots show pristine fruit definition, Burgundian restraint and visible terroir expression. As a group, the wines deliver elegant aroma, wonderfully generous palate-feel and a seamless follow-through to a lingering finish.
The Wonders of Wood
Good Pinot Noir will soak up oak with little loss of elegance or fruit intensity, and a deft winemaker who discovers the barrel regimen ideal for his fruit can achieve a wonderfully polished and satisfying result. Not necessarily the same result however, as barrel character expresses itself differently with different fruit. In fact, barrels from a more appropriate cooper can change dull or awkward wine into something flashy or polished. A Pinot maker needs to learn which barrels his fruit likes best. That is winemaking Alchemy, which the Hallecks understand well.
In their Three Sons Pinot blend ($41.95), the oak influence surfaces as sweet-natured tobacconistshop spice, along with woody pencil-shaving notes. The wine's vivid fruity-floral notes somehow team with the oak-derived flavors to push everything forward. The result is a cellar-worthy wine with great immediate appeal.
The Clone 828 Pinot Noir ($53.95), from the northern Sonoma Coast, is dramatically different. Here the fruit is broodingly complex and the oak mix produces a more masculine bouillon/roasted meat impression. This marries with the wines dark minerality and intense boysenberry fruit to create a mouth-filling rush of berry, black tea and forest floor spice, all amplified by the wines sinewy texture and tannic grip.
A similar magic is at work with the dark rootyearthy-sinewy Halleck Estate Vineyard Pinot, a 50- case bottling that is not yet released.
Halleck's Farm Vineyard Pinot ($53.95) is seemingly the least-evolved of the group, although it was their most expressive 2005. Barrel sampled, the 2006 was a virtual clone of its older sibling. It was wonderfully flamboyant, smothering its smoke and vanilla barrel notes in layers of strawberry, cherry, rose and dried orange. A subtle oak treatment was the right thing in this case. Expect the '06 to "open up" soon.
The Hallberg Vineyard Pinot ($53.95) is a brilliantly balanced and densely fruit-packed bottling. We saw multiple barrels of this wine and were amazed by the depth gained from the Remond coopered barrels that were used. From them, the wines deep Bing cherry fruit picked up captivating notes of panetone and sweet dried tobacco leaves. As good as this beauty is now, it can only get better, as will they all. Don't miss them!
THE SPRING 2008 NVWE 12 - PICKS! - $282.89
The Twelve Picks is a quarterly selection of wines that are carefully chosen by our staff for our customers and club members! This unique mix of a dozen red and white varietal(usually six red and six white) is selected based on quality, exclusivity and value. Guaranteed greatness! Purchase this entire box of wine for only $282.89 (plus shipping) OR order any quantity of each wine individually! 10% discount applies on any twelve bottle mix. For maximum convenience, join our Twelve Picks Advance wine club and receive a selected box of wine automatically every three months. There is no charge to join, and membership can be cancelled at any time. Additionally, members receive a 15% discount on all reorders of club wines. Contact us now to order or join!
800-653-WINE(9463) - or send us an email.
Or visit our website for our full inventory of wonderful small-production California wines: www.nvwe.com
Here are the wines make up our Spring 2008 12-Picks case:
2005 North Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
North Cabernet Sauvignon is a garnethued, aromatic wine with nuances of blackberry, black cherry and a hint of licorice that lingers on the tongue. A medium-bodied Cab, rather narrow in flavor, that could benefit from cellaring.Youthful essences of this wine imbue a subtle yet well-rounded flavor. This star of the North is perchance too young to be fully appreciated. With an abundance of tannins, North pairs well with grilled steak. Like Polaris itself, this is a Cabernet that will, in time, reach it's zenith.
56 cases produced.
Review by Susan Stapel.
Regularly $44.95/btl. or $485.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $38.21/btl. or $458.49/cs.
2005 Robert Goyette Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Initially tight, the nose of this "value" Cab offers red plum and red currant as main themes, ahead of dried herb,vanilla and black fig notes. It is fruitforward and supple on the palate, with well-defined cherry, red plum and rose flavors quietly supported by vanilla and forest bark hints. The flavors linger and it grows silkier as it airs, making it a graceful companion to a wide variety of foods.2,700 cases produced.
Regularly $19.95/btl. or $215.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $16.96/btl. or $203.49/cs.
2005 Foghorn Pinot Noir
Monterey
Bing cherry, red plum, vanilla, toffee, tobacco and powdered sumac all contribute to the forthcoming aromas ofthis fine debut Pinot. The same fruit and spice mix carries through on the palate, where the wines rich body is balanced and rendered fully dry by mineral notes and fine fruit acidity. Its long, gently tannic finish is dominated by cherries and Oriental spice, making this a near-ideal companion to duck breast. 300 cases produced.
Regularly $29.95/btl. or $323.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $25.46/btl. or $305.49/cs.
2005 Kendric Syrah
Amador County - Shenandoah Valley
Appealing for its savory complexity and focused fruit, this Syrah offers smoke, leather, violet, sumac and peppered beef scents, over deeper notes of ripe cherry and black fig. It is beautifully balanced, dry and sleek in mouthfeel. In the finish, strong minerality brings further dryness to the cherry, berry, violet, leather and broth flavors. Serve it with Hoisin Sauce ribs, or braised game birds. 250 cases produced, from the Reward Ranch Vineyard (1,466 foot elevation).
Regularly $19.95/btl. or $215.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $16.9575/btl. or $203.49/cs.
2005 Due Vigne Dolcetto
Sierra Foothills - El Dorado
Youthfully reserved, but zesty and very attractive, the aromas of this wine are focused on Amarena cherry, cranberry, vanilla, cinnamon and a hint of bouillon. In the mouth, its richness is rendered dry by crisp fruit acidity, mineral influences and some polished tannins. A delicious sour cherry note brightens the finish, balancing it for fatty duck and sauced meat courses. Blended with 16% Barbara and 3% Nebbiolo.240 cases produced from the Musso Family Vineyard.
Regularly $19.95/btl. or $215.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $16.96/btl. or $203.49/cs.
2005 Bluenose Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley
This focused and expressive Zin has aromas of black raspberry, pomegranate syrup, white pepper and violet, with hints of leather and roasted meat. It delivers flavors of blueberry, pomegranate, earth and peppery broth in a mediumbodied melange, well suited for food service. The finish is long and fully dry, with an excellent mix of dark fruit and savory spice. It should prove a fine match for grilled meats or spicy tomato based dishes.884 cases produced.
Regularly $24.95/btl. or $269.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $21.21/btl. or $254.49/cs.
2005 Dehlinger Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
This is a classic Dehlinger Chardonnay, a classy and complex wine, rich in mineral influences, savory spice and ripe fruit. The aromas, and the flavors that follow, are a seductive mix of honeysuckle, bees wax, Fuji apple, vanilla cream, slate-like mineral tones and hints of dried pineapple and lemon custard. The finish is long, rich andstony dry, and the wine is well designed for and worthy of grand French cuisine. 2,950 cases produced.93 pts. Wine Advocate.
Regularly $34.95/btl. or $377.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $29.71/btl. or $356.49/cs.
2006 Dutton Estate Sauvignon Blanc Kylie's CUVEE
Russian River Valley
Dutton Shop Block Vineyard
Intriguing, rich and subtly complex, the aromas of this "Musque clone" Sauvignon Blanc are a layered mix of kiwi, fig, peach pit, lime, passion fruit, melon and darkly mineral scents. Dried peach and other stone fruit notes dominate on the palate, with mineral, kiwi and preserved lime all adding depth. This is a lingering and complex sipper, delicious alone, and perhaps best matched to stuffed roast chicken or veal chops. 787 cases produced.
Regularly $17.95/btl. or $193.86/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $15.26/btl. or $183.09/cs.
2006 Palmina Pinot Grigio
Alisos Vineyard - Santa Barbara
The aromas of this bright, complex and engaging wine are of fresh lemon, honeysuckle, melon and dried orange,along with hints of mango and peach, over a strong flint-edged background. It proves even more expressive on the palate, where grapefruit and honeydew melon flavors join preserved lemon, dry peach, mango, and mineralnotes in a plush, yet bone dry package. It will be terrific with spicy Thai chicken dishes, or grilled prawns.550 cases produced.
Regularly $20.95/btl. or $226.26/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $17.81/btl. or $213.69/cs.
Laetitia Vineyard Sparkling Wine
Brut Cuvee
Arroyo Grande Valley
From its wonderfully active mousse of pinpoint-sized bubbles to its lovely peach, croissant, melon, preserved lemon, bread crust nose, this is an engaging bubbly. It proves silky and sophisticated on the palate, with peach pit, bread crust, chestnut honey and preserved lemon all contributing to its cascade of lingering flavors. Dry enough for fresh oysters, it is a lovely, mouth-filling sipper and a terrific value, with far more depth than others in its price range.
Regularly $27.95/btl. or $301.86/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $23.76/btl. or $285.09/cs.
2006 Halleck Gewurztraminer
Piner Creek Vineyard
Russian River Valley
Rich and gorgeously floral, this beauty offers focused aromas of sweet honeysuckle, yellow rose, honeydew melon and lychee in a charming display. It is richer than expected on the palate, where Crenshaw melon, preserved lemon, white pepper and mineral accents dominate the floral notes. Still a bit youthfully tight, it has a long, dry finish and flavors that expand as it airs. A wonderful food companion, it is a pleasure by itself. 129 cases produced.
Regularly $29.95/btl. or $323.46/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $25.46/btl. or $305.49/cs.
2006 TANGENT ECCLESTONE WHITE WINE
Edna Valley
This pretty blend has focused aromas of orange blossom, white peach and honeydew melon, with background hints of fresh apple, kiwi and jasmine. It is soft-edged, off dry, but zesty on the palate; where fresh apple, white peach, honeysuckle and jasmine find a refreshing harmony. A fine sipper, it could also be just the thing for spring rolls. A blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Orange Muscat and Albarino. 3,501 cases produced.
Regularly $22.95/btl. or $247.86/cs.
Reorders for Wine Club Members: $19.51/btl. or $234.09/cs.
Are you willing to risk being
ZAPPED SAPPED or SLAPPED?
ZAPPED SAPPED or SLAPPED?
Well... great wine doesn't have to hurt you... but great Zinfandel should make a statement. This year's 2008 Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) tasting featured dozens of outspoken wines. Here are six that had something to say...
2006 Brown Estate Zinfandel, Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley-Chiles Valley
Buxom. A sweet-hearted Lady, but with attitude to spare, an earthy streak and a tart edge to keep the attention focused. Loosen your necktie, it's hot in here. 1,900 cases produced.
2006 Charter Oak Zinfandel, Napa Valley
Suave and handsome this fella, with an oiled tan straight from Muscle Beach. No hard edges, but a manly stance that turns heads and beckons, Confident. He knows you're interested, but he won't wait long. 400 cases produced.
2005 Bella Vetta Zinfandel, Jack's Cabin, Rockpile District
That come-hither look, you've seen it before. Things could get heavy, should you respond? Yeah -- maybe so. Did you wanna live forever? 380 cases produced.
2005 Stuhlmuller Zinfandel, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
Shady looking. Could be Jean-Paul Belmondo in "Breathless," could be a track trout. Handsome, in a shifty sort of way. Worth the gamble? Where's the dice? 387 cases produced.
2005 Tin Barn Zinfandel, Dalrady Vineyard, Napa Valley
Shy and demure, no spiked heels, no lipstick. A healthy girl: not raised on Diner food. Nervous look though, heavy purse too'89'dbuc0u166 a weapon? Dust yourself off, say something friendly. 140 cases produced.
2006 Gamba Zinfandel, Estate Vineyard, Russian River Valley
Yep, the big guy's back in town. Mr. Muscle, powerful and imposing to the gents, but-oh-so sweet to the ladies. Long to the finish and back tomorrow full of energy, he keeps it spicy and interesting. 800 cases made.
We've put together two versions of this Zapped, Sapped and Slapped Zin Pack for you Zin-lovers to choose from:
6-pack (one of each bottle): $189.95 (plus shipping)
12-pack Case (two of each bottle): $369.95 (plus shipping)
Order soon -- we don't expect this brash bunch to be around for long!
POOR MERLOT!
Merlot is having such a hard time recovering from the unfair bashing he took in the movie "Sideways." Merlot is a lush and generous guy, maturing at an earlier age than his cousin, Cab -- yet folks still overlook him for the flashy power of Cabernet. Whitehall Lane's Merlot is, without doubt, California's finest in the under $35 price range. He drinks beautifully today AND is available in half-bottles and magnums! Support this little guy in his struggle to shine in his cousin's shadow!
Now through April 30th -- 15% off all Whitehall Lane Merlot!